Tuesday, December 9, 2008
My Monkey Mind on Crutches
Having experienced Nepal's many tourist attractions, I was relieved to seek refuge from the chaos in the Dammashringa Vipassana meditation centre. In a sense I left Nepal and entered the depths of my unconscious mind for a ten day commitment, which I was determined to finish properly.
I was kidding myself when I fantasized about being quiet on the day before the retreat as to not create any social temptations. Within an hour, I knew where all the foreigners were from, I was taking orders for momos while we waited for the bus, and I was dishing out meditation advice (from the girl who snuck out of her last meditation retreat.) I had to laugh when I met Kelly, my Australian equivalent, we're both asthmatic fitness instructors, with current travel inflicted digestive upset being treated with Ayurveda herbs, and we'd both taken meditation courses before, which we'd both snuck out of. And as if the universe was testing our strength, we were placed side by side in the Dhamma hall and designated beds three feet apart. It took a tremendous amount of will power not to look at her and chat at any opportunity, otherwise we likely would've lost it, snuck over the fence, found some toblerones and facebooked everyone we know...
Vipassana meditation, as taught by Goenkaji, is a technique used to examine the reality of our body and mind as it is, not as we would like it to be. If any sensations arise in the body, we are trained to observe it and not react to it, understanding its nature of impermanence. Students commit to ten days of silence and refrain from any contact with other students and the outside world. IPODs, books, lap tops and every form of entertainment are handed over on the day before the retreat so we have nothing left but our minds to keep us busy. And busy we certainly were, meditating for 12+ hours a day, an hour for each meal, 1.5 hours for discourse each night, barely enough time it seemed to fit in a shower.
Having attended two other meditation courses, I had an idea of what to expect, both from the course and my monkey mind. This type of meditation however, was completely new to me and presented many new challenges to overcome. The first came in the form of a gift bestowed upon the entire centre, from their neighbour. He must have realized how bored we were so he decided to blare the latest Nepali top ten, followed by the news each day for hours. He was perfectly in tune with the meditation schedule as well. I'd sit down and settle into a nice, peaceful, meditative groove and then suddenly the music would come. In my rage all would be lost and I'd stew in my madness for the rest of that hour. I soon realized that this was simply another lesson in not reacting and expecting circumstances to be exactly as I needed them to be in order to meditate, so I let go of the need to try and control the world around me and paid less attention to the news and more to my knees.
By day three or four I began to feel excruciating pain in my knees whenever I would sit for more than 15 minutes. Goenkaji calls this pain a releasing of "sankaras" which are mental impurities lying in the unconscious, which through meditation rise to the surface level of the mind and manifest as physical sensations in the body. We are taught to just observe the pain, and by not reacting, we eradicate the old sankaras and seize to create new ones. I was convinced however, that my pain had to be worse than everyone else's. Every moment I sat through the pain I would say to myself it's impermanent, anica anica anica, and my ego, frightened at the prospect of losing control, would assert its authority and complain, "there's no pain worse than this!" "You're going to cause permanent damage to your knees!" "This is ridiculous, you could be eating chocolate and climbing mount Everest right now and you're wasting your time with THIS!" I was fiercely determined to win this mighty battle with my ego, and eventually I did... It was the words of my dear friend Rae that carried me through, "Just surrender and trust in the process" she recommended after coming out of her meditation course. I thought, I've got 12 hours of meditating a day and seven more days to go, perhaps it's about time to give this surrender thing a try. On day four, all students move into the true technique of Vipassana through mind, body awareness and are asked to sit for at least one hour a day without moving even a tiny muscle. Despite the pain, discomfort, fatigue and a very slow moving bug of some sort moving across my face, I fought with all my might to sit for that one hour. On day six I was ready to let go of my knee pain, which I was sure I had some control over. I woke up at the usually scheduled ungodly hour of 4:30 am and wandered into the meditation hall saying to myself "the pain is done today." I scanned my body when I sat down and it was still present but I didn't attach any labels to it nor did I react to it in any way. By 6:00 am it was completely gone, and it never returned.
I've heard the many stories of miraculous experiences that people have while meditating and I've always harboured a secret desire that something exciting would happen to me as well, which, according to Goenkaji, is the strongest way of ensuring that it doesn't happen. I imagined writing my blog to tell you all that I had levitated off my cushion or had a vivid glimpse into my past or future, but unfortunately none of that happened. Instead, I was simply amusing myself with my new found ability to change my body temperature from freezing cold to intense heat in a matter of minutes, and once I'd eradicated my knee pain, I began to feel an even mass of sensation covering my body, followed by subtle vibrations in my hands and feet. The problem with the realization of these sensations is that once I labeled it as a pleasant sensation and started getting excited that something is finally happening to bring me out of the curse of boredom, like a hand tries to grasp a small hair in the bathtub, the more I tried to grasp a hold of it, the faster it would float away.
I completed the first of my two ten day courses and left the centre for a break in the middle feeling peaceful and lacking the impulse to freak out when returning to society. On the night we returned to Kathmandu, 15 or so of us got together for dinner. As we were walking to the restaurant, a rickshaw came really close to me and suddenly ran directly over my foot. Everyone else seemed to notice but me and asked "Oh my God are you ok?" Surprisingly I was. Goenkaji says that the first yard stick of progress after the course is observing how it has impacted you, then sharing it with others. I have to disagree. I think the first indication of progress should be, having a vehicle roll over your foot and observing how well YOU do at not reacting!
Following my first course, it was my sincerest intention to return and serve as a Dhamma worker for the following course. I was so adamant about serving, convinced that this would be a great opportunity to GIVE and for ten days, be completely selfless, putting the needs of the meditators before my own. So I returned to the centre after two crammed days in Kathmandu and moved through my training in usual Tiffany style, not allowing a single breath before, between or after. When I finished, the students started arriving and I was busy showing them to their rooms. At dusk I was basking in the glory of being in a position of importance, and my head was held too high to see the stairs below my feet, which I gracefully tumbled down. As I fell, dropping the box of supplies I was carrying, I heard a "snap" and the swelling of my left ankle began immediately. Turns out there is worse pain than my knee pain!
So for the first four days of the course, everyone was helping me and my torn ligaments, seeing to it that MY needs were met. It's funny how things can go so opposite from what we plan. I'm grateful that it happened though, as it truly humbled me, made me slow down and look upon each small task that I was still able to perform, with gratitude and care. Due to my slow pace, which caused me to open my eyes and take in the amazing surroundings, I ended up bumping into one of the wild monkeys who frequently visits the monastery. I was outside doing yoga one day when I was approached by the monkey who was wandering about 4 feet from my yoga mat. He exuberated peace and self assurance, surely he was a meditating monkey, practicing his own form of vipassana.
I had to laugh when I realized the irony of my injury, seeing as I had just spent a month trekking and came out without any bruises or scars. Perhaps it was meant to happen in the midst of my meditation, in a place where I was truly blessed with people to help me. When I came back from the hospital, hobbling on my crutches, Beem, the office manager looked at me and laughed saying "Oh, you're lucky Teefany, you have big sankara come out!" So now when travellers see me with my crutches and aircast and ask, "did you fall down a mountain while trekking?" I can reply "No, I did it while meditating!"
I'm sorry that don't have any exciting pictures to post, as the shot of the monkey is my one of my few pics in the past 20 days. Hope you enjoyed the blog and I shall write again soon. My apologies to those who are awaiting a reply, Internet has been in short supply in my world these days, but I promise to make an effort to get back to you soon!
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Zen and the art of eating a Nepali Dal Bhat
"The only zen you find on the tops of mountains, is the zen you bring up there." Robert M. Pirsig
I had reservations about embarking on the journey of the Anapurna mountains from the time I said GO. The universe certainly had a way of asking me to question just how much I really wanted this experience. Many obstacles were placed in my way, such as losing a notebook with all my trekking and guide information, hiring a guide that didn't show up and getting the run around with the Nepali's unofficial system of providing "porters" off the street with no training etc. Regardless of all of this, I was determined to go, so I finally found a porter through a reputable company and together we set off on the Anapurna Sanctuary trek.
Unfortunately arriving in the mountains wasn't an immediate breath of fresh air as I was facing a power struggle between stubborn, infamous, singing guide and strong, determined, female traveller. My decision to choose my own guesthouse against his suggestion on the first evening, was enough to send him into a rage with threats to leave if he didn't get his own way... Needless to say, the following days to come were difficult. The struggle between self respect and keeping the peace became a challenging one, but I didn't want to allow our conflict to ruin my experience.
The journey to ABC began to feel like a meditation, a cleanse, release of toxins. Every step requiring my undivided attention and awareness. Despite the physical challenge and the difficulty with my guide, I felt that I was being tested and challenged to see the beauty in my surroundings and be thankful for every step along this path. Perhaps I was attached to the idea that maybe I'd find the peace and serenity I was looking for at the top of the mountain, but with each breath of resistance, I would only become closer and closer to finding the same misery that I'd carried with me along with my hiking boots and body wash.
On my third night, I met a group of travellers from all over the world and things began to look up. The following day we all arrived one by one at our destination and gathered at the same guesthouse in the ABC at 4100 metres 13,450 feet. I wanted to go higher as I'd heard that you can prevent altitude sickness if you hike 200 metres higher than you sleep, so I was determined to make it to the snow line of the mountain. I pointed to the desired destination and Alex, our English group member, said it would take me two hours to reach that point. I insisted it would only take a half hour and he said that if I could do it in 30 minutes, he'd buy me a Dal Bhat for dinner. "Deal" I replied as I ran towards the snow line.
Perhaps it was slightly irresponsible of me to take this bet, due to my asthma and aching limbs. The severity of the altitude hit be about half way up and caught a glimpse of the deep canyon that lay directly below the narrow ridge I was climbing. I stopped to breathe at ten minutes, fiften, twenty, then I made a run for it and i arrived in exactly 23 minutes. Once I caught my breath I stood on the ledge and screamed a sound of success. Down below, my friends sighed with relief that I was alive as they had lost sight of me ten minutes previous. After my scream, a stream of emotions filled my body and for a million reasons... I cried. It was a much needed release of emotion which signified my pride of being able to do what I've often been told that I was limited in my ability to accomplish, due to my asthma. I also realised that I had accomplished my primary goal, which I had set before coming to Nepal. It has become quite clear to me however, that coming to Nepal to trek, has very little to do with trekking itself. The Dal Bhat, by the way, tasted great, even though I haven't mastered the art of eating it with my hands yet.
The following morning, basking in the glory of reaching my destination, I felt elated. That feeling was soon replaced with shock as I realised that my porter had decided to leave the highest point of the mountain, the most desolate and rural place I'd ever been on earth... without me. I searched high and low but I knew in my gut that he'd left. Someone said it was beceause he'd been drinking, another claimed he was crazy, either way I was without one drunken or dilusional porter to carry my 12 kilo bag for the remaining three days of my trek. I thought to myself, following the wise words of my former YWCA supervisor, Kim, "If this is the worst thing that happens to you today, you're doing pretty good." After all, I was feeling incredibly healthy, happy and I had many people around to help, it definitely could have been much worse.
Fortunately I was offered a hand by a kind Polish guy named Piotr, who noticed me in tears of frustration as I mournfully tried to carry my combersome burden. He took part of my load and we set off to reach our destination, which was 7 hours away. The first day of carrying my stuff wasn't so bad, although it made me seriously contemplate travelling lighter and sending my bag over the cliff a few times. The following day, however, I realized what we would be up against, stairs going straight down, then up 500 metres and a mountain that would show no mercy. I needed help so I prayed for a porter, returning from unloading his burden in the hills. Two men arrived shortly after and said they couldn't help but they quickly exchanged some words with an old man who was carrying an enormous load, surely equalling over 30 kilos. He looked at me and said "put your bag on top." Piotr and I looked at eachother in shock. I replied "No way, you're carrying too much already!" He insisted saying that it would be no problem and added that he would appreciate the extra money to help feed his family. Some people say that Nepali porters are super-human. These men are the skinniest but strongest men I've ever met, carrying up to 100 kilos in one go, hopping over rivers, trodding up stairs, running over rocks and all in their flip flops. Needless to say, we made it to our destination, and we were huffing and puffing more than our porter.
It was tough to find a porter the following day as it was depawali festival where brothers rush home to receive their "tikkas", a blessing from their sisters. I'm pretty sure the dogs and cows didnt sign up for participation in this festival though but they too receive tikkas on their heads, displaying their colourful brands with lack of amusement. We finally managed to find a porter at a guest house in New Bridge, the teenage son of the owner. So 13 year old Deepak and 15 year old Subash became our young porter/guides, quickly and carefully guiding us to the end of the trail. Deepak's English was pretty good. He talked about the sports he liked to play and I taught him how to sing "I like to eat, eat, eat apples and bananas!" He explained that they went to school in Gandruk, 2 hours away from New Bridge, and they walk for two hours, rain, snow, sickness etc. up hill... both ways. I enjoyed their company immensely and was sad to say goodbye at the end of the day, but happy to make it back to Pokhara safely, with only a few bruises and aching limbs as souvenirs of my experience.
I had to deal with the trekking company the following day and it was difficult. Eventually I had to go above them to the Trekking Agency Association of Nepal to get most of my money back. I agreed to leave half of it anyway for Subash to pay for his food etc. Besides, the president of the company said that he would have to accept responsibility for what he'd done and apologize in order to receive his pay. I felt that this was very reasonable and I was happy to put all of this behind me.
And so the chapter of submersing myself in the busy tourist circuit of Nepal, despite my reservations, came to a close. It was surely a test which has strengthened both the trust in my intuition and the muscles in my legs. The next chapter involves a journey into the great depths of my being in meditation for the next month. Perhaps it will prove to be an even crazier journey than the one I just completed.
To see photos click on: http://picasaweb.google.com/KusumaTiffany/ZenAndTheArtOfEatingANepaliDalBhat#
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Come as a Tourist, leave as a friend...
Other than my 6 countries in 24 days stint around Europe in 2002, this one takes the cake for amount of land covered in 3 weeks. No wonder I'm exhausted! I've decided to take it easy in Pokhara, well at least for today, as tomorrow I leave for another trek for 7-10 days around the Anapurna Sanctuary. But first, lets go back a few weeks to catch you up.
Cam, my Aussie travel partner, flew out to see me in Laos, about half way through my stay. We spent about a week together in Vang Vieng before flying out to Kathmandu Nepal. We had an interesting ride to Bangkok airport however, before our departure. For whatever reason, we were never informed, the traffic in Bangkok was bumper to bumper and we could have walked faster to the airport. It turned out there were 5 people in our minivan on the same flight to Kathmandu, so we were all pushing to arrive in time for our fight. In the midst of the traffic, I had to pee more intensely than I could ever recall. The driver was not waiting for me, even if I decided to try peeing on the side of the road in the middle of Bangkok. So Cam cut the top off of a 1.5 L bottle and handed it to me. Luckily we were in the back of the mini bus but everyone knew what was happening. Cam and I killed ourselves laughing, while everyone else seemed mortified. I peed about a litre of liquid, and when we finally arrived at the airport, I said to one of the other passengers, "I can't believe I peed that much!" She replied, unimpressed, and without a smile, "I can't believe you peed." Leaving the serenity and simplicity of Laos and arriving in large and stinky Kathmandu was crazier than the reverse culture shock I experienced when coming back to Canada, well not really...
We did our best to get out of there asap and took a bus shortly after arriving to Chitwan National Park in search of Rhinos and Elephants. For a city which seems to have been taken over by the tourist industry, it was incredibly hard to get to. I supposed it was because we weren't part of the packaged tours. After an eight hour bus ride, we took another bus, then a mini bus, which over-heated and started smoking on the way. Cam dove out of the window, and the locals fell to the ground laughing at him and taking turns making jokes in his favour.
We went on a one-day safari in search of wildlife, which we found a lot of. Down the river on the canoe, we came dangerously close to two masmongruel Crocodiles, which are aparently the most dangerous in the world. They didn't seem to be phased by our passing. Sandpipers and Stocks flew over our heads as we made our way to the trail. The mission was of course to find Rhinos. I was more concerned with how to escape if a Rhino charges us than seeing them at all. We came across many termite hills, families of Monkeys, tons of leeches, wild boars and elephants (used heavily in the tourist circuit), but unfortunately, no Rhinos. We stayed that night in the Wildlife tower and two Rhinos came really close to the tower. Although we didn't manage to get any pictures of them, it was amazing to see them quietly drift into the meadow, two ghost-like figures, being gawked at by a group of tourists.
We came back from Kathmandu and the next day rode a motorbike to Nagarcott, a two-hour ride up the kathmandu valley, which was supposed to have amazing views of the himalaya mountain range at sunrise. We stayed at Eco-Home, a guest house run by a joyful man named Semanta. Everything he did in his life seemed to have meaning. The guesthouse was designed completely eco-friendly, everything down to the menus was recycled. He also ran a volunteer program for the people in the local community, helping with different projects to assist them with becomming healthier and happier. There was a lot to be learned from this man, and his giving nature made us feel like family, staying with him. I think his guesthouse was the first of which we saw the slogan "Come as a tourist, leave as a friend." Although the motto he expressed regulariy was something along the lines of "Smile, your life depends on it."
Touched by our experience with this man, we decided to visit a friend of his on the way back to Kathmandu. He owned a Fair Trade work shop where we received a tour of the ladies working and bought some of their crafts. Our time was limited though so we went back to Kathmandu quickly. The following day we hopped on a bus to Dunche to do the Lang Tang trek.
We didnt have a bus ticket so we had to pay a bit more to ride in a mini bus to the half way point of Tusuli. In this town we were offered a ride on the tourist bus which was packed on the inside and had exploded upwards with bodies hanging off the roof, no doubt clinging to the rail for dear life. He said 100 Rupees (about $1.25) and pointed at the roof. We declined. Finally we found a chartered bus and paid a lot more than we should have for a suicidal bus ride that got us 3/4 of the way to Dunche where there was a landslide blocking the road. We walked over it and found our way on another bus and an hour later, arrived in Dunche, lucky to be alive. On the way back we drove over the landslide in the local bus, being the guinea pigs for other busses to come... I closed my eyes and prayed.
The trek is hard to write about. It's difficult to put natural beauty into words. It was difficult to walk up hill for 6 hours a day but I was lucky to have Cam as he carried the heavy bag and listened patiently as I moaned and groaned the whole way... But it was a fantastic challenge, one I was greatful to experience. Best to look at the pictures as they will tell the story of our trek.
After the trek, Cam had to leave and move on to his main purpose for returning to South East Asia, a 4 month apprenticeship in the Phillippines. One can't express the bond you create with another that you travel with for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, through challenges and joy, and a variety of cultures. You would only know it if you've experienced it, but it's wonderful. I was so blessed to have him with me on this part of my journey and his departure in pursuit of his own dream, helped me to be pushed back on track to what I came here to do.
So here I am in Pokhara, leaving on yet another up hill journey through the mountains. It was challenging getting to this point and I am interested to see how the next week presents itself. After this trek I am embarking on an entirely different journey of going inwards to another 10 day vipassana retreat.
Check out my pics and please write back with any comments, questions and updates on your lives.
Namaste and lots of love,
Tiff xo
Check out my pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/KusumaTiffany/LaosToNepal#
Sunday, September 14, 2008
My return to Asia
I left
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http://picasaweb.google.com/KusumaTiffany/BackToAsia#
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